Paulownia Fortunei Root Cuttings

€99,00
Unit price

25 Pcs

50 Pcs

100 Pcs

250 Pcs

500 Pcs

1000 Pcs

✔ Worldwide shipping
✔ Free shipping included
✔ Professional export packaging
✔ Paulownia growing guide included
✔ Root cuttings available for pre-order
✔ Need more information? Contact us at contact@kirigreen.com

Available for pre-order. Paulownia root cuttings can be reserved now — place your order to secure your variety and quantity. Orders are prepared and shipped after the next harvest, scheduled for November.

For professional projects or larger quantities, contact us for a custom quote based on variety, quantity and delivery country — or email contact@kirigreen.com with your desired variety, required quantity, delivery country and full delivery address.

Paulownia fortunei, often called the Fortune Tree or Sapphire Tree, is a prestigious pure species highly valued throughout Asia for both its ornamental beauty and its exceptional timber quality. Renowned for its rapid growth, elegant form and fragrant blossoms, it is one of the most majestic members of the Paulowniaceae family — and the parent of many modern hybrids.

It is widely planted for ornamental landscaping, furniture-making, fine carpentry and specialty wood industries, thanks to its light yet durable wood, appreciated in high-end cabinetry, musical instruments, veneers and decorative crafts. Deeply rooted in Chinese and Japanese tradition, Paulownia fortunei is considered a symbol of prosperity, beauty and good fortune.

Every bare-root cutting from KiriGreen is premium Grade A, carefully selected for quality, thickness and vitality. Root cuttings are the most economical and reliable way to start a plantation — each is a segment of root that develops into a new, genetically identical plant, prepared for spring planting to ensure strong establishment and healthy growth.

This format is particularly suited to ornamental planting, timber production, agroforestry, specialty wood, landscaping and large-scale plantations.

Key Characteristics

Pure species (non-hybrid): valued for natural beauty, cultural significance and premium timber quality — also available as seeds.
Premium Grade A cuttings: selected for thickness, quality and vitality, with a high establishment rate of up to 99% in good conditions.
Rapid growth: reaches 3–4 metres per year in favourable climates.
Warm-climate species: excellent heat performance; cold tolerance down to around −15 to −18 °C, ideal for warmer temperate, Mediterranean and subtropical regions.
Fragrant, showy blossoms: large lavender-purple flowers, creamy white inside with yellow or purple markings, in spring to early summer.
High-value timber: lightweight, stable wood, perfect for furniture, veneers, cabinetry, fine carpentry and musical instruments.
Ornamental appeal: lush foliage with large, light-green leaves providing dense shade.
Cultural importance: a symbol of prosperity, luck and elegance in East Asian tradition.

Technical Specifications

Genus / Species: Paulownia fortunei
Type: Pure species (non-hybrid)
Common names: Fortune Tree, Sapphire Tree
Form: Bare-root cutting
Grade: A
Average length: 12–14 cm
Diameter: 1–2 cm
Establishment rate: Up to 99% in good conditions
Growth rate: 2–4 m/year
Mature height: 12–21 m
Spread: 6–10 m
Cold resistance: −20 °C
Hardiness zones: 6–10
Soil pH: 5.5–7.5
Soil type: well-drained clay, loam or sand
Exposure: full sun / partial sun
Water requirements: moderate
Bloom season: spring
Foliage: large, light-green leaves
Packaging: roots packaged to retain natural humidity and vitality for safe transport

Natural differences in shape, length and diameter may occur between individual cuttings. Paulownia root cuttings are living planting material and cannot all have exactly identical dimensions.

Need a specific quantity or format? Larger volumes or specially selected cuttings can be prepared for professional orders. Contact us for a tailor-made quote based on your project, quantity and requirements.

Advantages of Root Cuttings

The most economical way to start a Paulownia plantation, ideal for trials and large-scale projects.
Each cutting develops its own roots and shoots, producing a plant genetically identical to the parent.
Simple to establish: planted inclined at 45°, thicker end up, fully buried a few centimetres below the surface.
A free growing guide is included with every order to help you get the best possible results.

Packaging and Delivery

The cuttings are prepared and protected to preserve their natural humidity during transport. Upon delivery:

open the package promptly;
inspect the cuttings;
keep them cool and protected from direct sunlight;
do not allow them to dry out;
plant as soon as conditions allow.

When immediate planting is not possible, keep the cuttings temporarily in slightly moist sand, in a cool, frost-free place.

Why Choose KiriGreen Paulownia?

Premium selected Paulownia planting material
Grade A cuttings prepared for strong establishment
Several varieties available for different climates and projects
Professional packaging for national and international delivery
Growing and planting guidance included
Custom quotations for forestry and large-scale plantations
Specialist supplier dedicated entirely to Paulownia cultivation

Not sure if Fortunei is right for your climate? Explore our full Varieties & Climate Guide, discover real use cases and inspiration, or read our complete Growing Guide.

Paulownia Seed Sowing Guide

From seed to planting out — the complete step-by-step method for all Paulownia varieties, hybrids and pure species alike. The key to success: light, warmth and a humid greenhouse environment.

7–21 dGermination

8–14 wkSeed to planting

1.5–3 mGrowth year 1

75–85%Germination rate

7–10 yrWood harvest

In this guide

The 3 golden rules
What you need
The greenhouse effect
The 8 steps
Troubleshooting
Key takeaways

Paulownia seeds are tiny but full of potential. Unlike many seeds, they must never be buried — they need light to germinate. The whole method comes down to recreating a warm, humid, bright micro-climate: a simple greenhouse effect that triggers fast, even germination.

The 3 golden rules

Before anything else, remember these three fundamentals. Get them right and germination follows naturally.

1. Never bury the seeds

Paulownia seeds germinate only in the light.
Sow them on the surface of the substrate.
Press very gently with a fingertip for seed-to-soil contact — nothing more.

2. Light is essential

Bright, indirect light or a grow lamp keeps germination going.
A windowsill, greenhouse or grow light all work well.
Avoid direct, scorching sun — bright but indirect light is ideal.

3. Create a warm, humid greenhouse environment

Keep 20–25 °C during the day, 15 °C minimum at night, and ideally no more than 30 °C.
Maintain constant humidity — but never soaking wet.
Cover to trap warmth and moisture (see the dedicated section below).

What you need

Essential

Paulownia seeds
A fine, well-draining seed substrate (light potting mix, optionally with a little sand or perlite)
Seed trays, cells or small pots with drainage holes
A cover: mini-greenhouse lid, clear plastic film, or a transparent box
A bright spot: windowsill, greenhouse, or a grow lamp
A fine mister (spray bottle)

Optional but helpful Optional

A heat mat to hold a steady 20–25 °C in cool rooms
A grow light for early sowing or low-light regions
Perlite or river sand to lighten the substrate
A small thermometer / hygrometer to monitor the micro-climate

Good to know: none of the "optional" items are mandatory. A simple tray on a bright windowsill with a plastic cover is enough to succeed. The extras just make results more consistent, especially in cold or dark conditions.

Creating the greenhouse effect (the most important step)

This is the heart of the method. The "greenhouse effect" simply means trapping warmth and humidity around your seeds while still letting light through. It's what makes germination fast and even.

How to create it

After sowing, cover the tray with a transparent lid, clear plastic film or a see-through box.
The cover must let light through — never use an opaque cover.
Place everything in a warm, bright spot (20–25 °C).
Condensation on the cover is a good sign: it means humidity is high.

How to maintain it

Ventilate 5 minutes a day by lifting the cover — this prevents mould.
Keep the substrate moist but never waterlogged.
Re-mist lightly whenever the surface starts to dry.
Hold the temperature as steady as you can, day and night.

Watch out: the two enemies at this stage are drying out (seeds stop germinating) and stagnant damp air (mould / damping-off). The daily 5-minute airing is what keeps the balance right.

The 8 steps, from seed to planting out

Prepare & moisten the substrate Essential Before sowing, fill your trays or cells with a fine, well-draining substrate and water it first so it is evenly moist — but never soaking wet. Sowing onto an already-damp substrate gives the seeds the right conditions from the start.
Surface sowing Essential Place 2–3 seeds per cell directly on the surface — do not bury them. Light is essential for germination. Press very gently with a fingertip to ensure seed-to-soil contact.
Misting & covering After sowing, lightly mist the surface with a fine spray to settle the seeds and keep them humid — never a direct jet, which would displace them. You can also water by capillarity (a tray of water under the pots). Then cover with clear plastic film or a mini-greenhouse lid. Ventilate 5 min/day to prevent mould.
Emergence (day 7 to 21) Remove the cover gradually over 2–3 days as soon as the first shoots appear. Keep 20–25 °C by day (max 30 °C), 15 °C minimum at night. Keep the most vigorous seedling per cell — cut the others at soil level with scissors. Thinning optional but recommended for strong plants
Pricking out / potting up (seedlings 5–8 cm) Once the seedlings reach 5–8 cm, transplant them into 9–12 cm pots with the same free-draining substrate. Moisten the cell before lifting the seedling. This time you can bury up to the cotyledons (the first pair of leaves). Water lightly and return to full light at 20–25 °C.
Fertilization (ongoing care) Optional Fertilization is a continuous care step that accompanies growth. From 3–4 weeks after emergence (2 to 4 true leaves): NPK 10-10-10 diluted to 50% of the dose. From the 6th week: full dose. Then switch to NPK 15-15-15 to support growth in pots. Seedlings will grow without feeding, but fertilizer gives stronger, faster development.
Hardening off (10–15 days) Essential Gradual acclimatization is essential before planting out: days 1–4: 2 h outside, sheltered from wind. Days 5–9: 4–6 h with progressive sun. Days 10–15: outside permanently. Bring in only if frost is forecast.
Planting in open ground Once the plants are at least 15–30 cm tall and all risk of frost has passed, plant them in the ground. Well-drained soil, loosened 40–50 cm. Hole 40 × 40 cm. Spacing: 4–6 m for timber production, 2–3 m for windbreak hedges, 1–2 m for dense biomass. Water generously.

Common problems & solutions

Problem	Likely cause & solution
No germination after 3 weeks	Seeds buried, too little light, or too cold. Sow on the surface, add light, hold 20–25 °C.
Mould on the surface	Stagnant humid air. Ventilate daily, reduce watering, improve airflow.
Seedlings collapse at the base (damping-off)	Too wet and too warm without airflow. Reduce watering, ventilate more, remove affected seedlings.
Substrate dries too fast	Cover not sealing well or spot too hot/dry. Re-mist, check the cover, move out of direct heat.
Tall, thin, pale seedlings	Not enough light (etiolation). Move to a brighter spot or add a grow lamp.
Seedlings stall after emergence	Often normal in the first weeks. Keep warmth, light and gentle moisture; feeding can help.

Key takeaways for successful sowing

Never bury the seeds — sow on the surface, light is essential for germination.
Moisten the substrate before sowing, then mist lightly after sowing to settle and humidify the seeds.
Create a warm, humid greenhouse environment: transparent cover, 20–25 °C (max 30 °C), constant moisture.
Water only by fine misting or capillarity — never a direct jet.
Ventilate 5 minutes a day to prevent mould — this is the balance point.
Remove the cover gradually once shoots appear; keep one vigorous seedling per cell.
Fertilization is optional but boosts growth; hardening off before planting is essential.
Plant out once seedlings are 15–30 cm tall, after all frost, in well-drained soil loosened to 40–50 cm.
Germination in 7–21 days · seed to planting in 8–14 weeks · 1.5–3 m in the first year.

Happy sowing and a fine harvest!
A question about your project? Contact us at contact@kirigreen.com — we're always happy to help.

Paulownia Growing Guide

Everything you need to successfully plant and grow your Paulownia from root cuttings and bare-root stumps — all varieties, step by step.

In this guide

1. Variety overview
2. Cuttings vs stumps
3. On delivery
4. Soil & substrate
5. How to plant
6. Watering & care
7. What to expect
8. Troubleshooting
9. Fertilization plan
10. Key takeaways

The root cutting is the most efficient and reliable way to propagate Paulownia. A 12–14 cm root segment holds enough energy reserves to produce a vigorous new plant — with no rooting hormones or special substrate needed. Bare-root stumps take this a step further, offering an already-developed root system and a cut trunk for even faster establishment.

1. Variety overview

Each variety offered by KiriGreen has its own strengths in growth, cold resistance and use. This applies to both root cuttings and stumps.

Variety	Frost	Growth/yr	Success	Parentage	Characteristics & use
Pao Tong Z07 (hybrid)	−33 °C	2.5–5 m	94–99%	P. tomentosa × P. fortunei × P. kawakamii	Ultra-hardy hybrid. High-density timber, biomass, agroforestry. The most cold- and heat-resistant of the range. Exceptional adaptability to all climates.
Shan Tong (hybrid)	−28 °C	2.5–5 m	94–99%	P. tomentosa × P. fortunei	The reference hybrid in Europe. High-quality timber, 40% lighter than pine. Even growth, straight trunk. Stump regrows 4–7 times after cutting.
9501 (hybrid)	−25 °C	2–4 m	94–99%	P. tomentosa × P. fortunei	Founding 950x hybrid, versatile and productive. Timber, windbreak hedges, beekeeping, ornament. Very adaptable, from continental cold to warm subtropical.
9502 (hybrid)	−25 °C	2–4 m	94–99%	P. tomentosa × P. fortunei	Productive 950x hybrid. Stable, even growth. Timber, mixed plantations. Good adaptation to varied soils and difficult climatic conditions.
9503 "Oxytree" (hybrid)	−25 °C	2–4 m	94–99%	P. tomentosa × P. fortunei	The most refined 950x selection. Dense plantations, industrial timber, biomass. The most adaptable of the range — from temperate to tropical zones.
Elongata (pure species)	−18 °C	3–5 m	94–99%	Pure species (P. elongata)	Pure species for warm and temperate regions. Ultra-fast growth up to 5 m/yr. Light wood, reforestation, ornament. Decorative pale-lilac blossom in April.
Fortunei (pure species)	−20 °C	2–3 m	94–99%	Pure species (P. fortunei)	Pure species, parent of all modern hybrids. Quality wood, straight trunk. Large leaves, fragrant purple blossom. Excellent drought and pollution resistance.
Tomentosa (pure species)	−25 °C	2–3 m	94–99%	Pure species (P. tomentosa)	The imperial tree. Highly ornamental pure species. Spectacular fragrant purple blossom. Melliferous. Adapts to all soils. The most cold-hardy of the pure species.

2. Root cuttings vs bare-root stumps

Both are excellent starting points — the right choice depends on your project and how quickly you want establishment.

Root cuttings

A 12–14 cm root segment
The most economical option for volume planting
Develops its own roots and shoots after planting
Planted inclined at 45°, fully buried
Ideal for trials and large plantations

Bare-root stumps

A dormant young plant with a developed root system and cut trunk
Faster establishment than cuttings or seeds
Planted vertically, roots covered, cut section just above ground
Ideal for professional, faster-yield plantations

In short: a cutting builds everything from a root segment; a stump already has its root structure and trunk, giving it a head start. The planting principles that follow apply to both — the key difference is orientation at planting (see section 5).

3. Checking your plants on delivery

Your cuttings and stumps arrive ready to plant. On arrival, simply check the following:

The cutting or stump is firm and not shrivelled — a sign of good vitality.
The bark is healthy, with no black spots or soft, suspicious areas.
If you can't plant immediately: keep the material in slightly moist sand, protected from frost (2–5 °C), for a maximum of 2–4 weeks.

4. Soil & substrate preparation

In open ground

Ideal soil: sandy-loam; adapts to any well-drained soil. pH 5.5 to 7.5.
Loosen to 40–50 cm deep before planting.
Add coarse sand or mature compost if the soil is heavy or clay.
Avoid areas with a high water table or prone to waterlogging.
Organic or plastic mulch: 1 m around the base.

In container / nursery

50% sifted horticultural potting soil
30% river sand or perlite
20% well-decomposed compost
Pots of 1–2 litres minimum, with drainage holes. Target pH: 5.5 to 7.0.

5. How to plant

Root cuttings

Dig: make a hole or furrow about 15 cm deep.
Place: lay the cutting inclined at 45°, fully buried, with the top surface 2–3 cm below the soil. Orient the thicker end upward.
Firm: gently firm the soil around the cutting to remove air pockets.
Water: water moderately after planting. Do not saturate the soil.

Bare-root stumps

Dig a hole large enough to spread the roots naturally.
Position the stump vertically, with the root system fully covered and the upper cut section remaining just above ground level.
Fill with loose soil and gently firm around the roots to remove air pockets.
Water thoroughly right after planting, then keep moisture regular during establishment. Avoid permanently waterlogged soil.

Key difference: a cutting is planted inclined at 45° and fully buried; a stump is planted vertically with its cut trunk left just above the surface.

6. Watering, care & fertilization

Watering

First 4 weeks: soil slightly moist, never soaked. 1–2×/week.
From first shoots: gradually increase water.
First 2 years: 20–40 L per plant, 1–2×/week.
Heat (> 30 °C): water every evening.
From year 3: self-sufficient, except drought > 3 weeks.
Sign of shortage: leaves curling and dropping prematurely.

Fertilization & care

First feed when the shoot reaches 20–30 cm: NPK 10-10-10 at half dose.
Spring (regrowth): NPK 20-20-20 to boost growth.
Summer: NPK 15-15-15. Stop all nitrogen by late August.
Weeding within 1 m: essential for the first 2 years.
Mulch (10–15 cm): moisture, weeds, root protection.
Optional technical pruning (frost-free period): cutting the stem back low encourages a single, straight regrowth.

7. What to expect after planting

Period	What happens
Weeks 1–3	No visible sign above ground. The cutting develops its first adventitious roots. No cause for concern.
Weeks 4–6	First buds and small shoots appear at the surface. The cutting has rooted.
Weeks 6–10	Rapid stem development. The main shoot asserts itself. Select the most vigorous one.
Months 3–6	The plant reaches 30–80 cm depending on climate and variety.
End of year 1	In good conditions: 1.5–3 m tall depending on variety and watering.

Selecting the dominant shoot

Several shoots may emerge from one cutting. For a straight tree with optimal growth:
Select the most vigorous shoot.
Pinch or cut the others at their base.
Keep only one main stem per cutting.

Frost protection

Young shoots are sensitive to late frosts in the first 2 years.
Cover with fleece if frost threatens.
Frost down to −5 °C kills the aerial shoot, but the plant regrows from the base.
Optional technical pruning: in a frost-free period, the stem can be cut back low to obtain a single, straight, vigorous regrowth.

8. Common problems & solutions

Problem	Solution
No emergence after 8 weeks	Check soil moisture (too dry or too wet), temperature (< 10 °C), or a damaged cutting.
Cutting rot	Insufficient drainage or excessive watering. Improve the soil, reduce watering.
Weak, stunted shoot	Lack of light, weed competition or compacted soil. Weed and loosen.
Yellowing leaves	Excess water, iron deficiency (chlorosis) on chalky soil, pH too high. Check drainage.
Mole cricket attack	Insects that cut through roots. Set up water-pot traps around the plants.
Main shoot frozen	Normal: remove the frozen stem — one or more shoots will regrow vigorously.
Slow growth in summer	Insufficient watering or compacted soil. Increase water (20–40 L) and mulch.
Leaves burnt at the edges	Excess fertilizer or water deficit. Leach the soil, reduce NPK by 30%.

9. Annual fertilization plan — Paulownia in open ground

Period	NPK fertilizer	Dose / plant	Frequency	Role
Feb–Mar (before regrowth)	NPK 20-20-20 soluble	150 g (yr 1: 80 g)	1 application before shoots	N: kick-starts growth. P: rooting. K: natural defences.
Apr–May (fast growth)	NPK 20-20-20 soluble	100–120 g in water	Every 3 weeks	High N: 5–15 cm/week growth. P: lateral roots. K: stem rigidity.
Jun–Jul (peak growth)	NPK 15-15-15 granular, buried	150–200 g at base	Every 4 weeks	Balanced N-P-K sustains growth. Promotes trunk lignification.
August (gradual stop)	NPK 0-15-30 (no nitrogen)	80–100 g at base	1 application early August	Zero nitrogen stops elongation. P+K harden the wood before winter.
Sep–Jan (dormancy)	No fertilizer	—	—	Tree at rest. Winter nitrogen causes fragile, frost-sensitive shoots.

10. Key takeaways for optimal success

Root cuttings: 12–14 cm segments, delivered ready to plant. Planted inclined at 45°, thicker end up, fully buried.
Bare-root stumps: a dormant young plant with a developed root system and cut trunk. Planted vertically, roots covered, cut section just above ground — for faster establishment.
Check vitality on arrival: the material should be firm, with healthy bark.
Well-drained soil, loosened 40–50 cm. Moderate watering until emergence, then 20–40 L/plant, 1–2×/week for 2 years.
Select a single dominant shoot for a straight, vigorous tree.
Mulch, regular weeding within 1 m, seasonal NPK fertilization.
Protect from late frosts for the first 2 years.
Year 1: 1.5–3 m depending on variety. Timber harvest: 7–10 years. The stump regrows around 5 times after cutting.

Happy planting and a fine harvest!
A question about your project? Contact us at contact@kirigreen.com — we're always happy to help.

Paulownia Fortunei Root Cuttings

Key Characteristics

Technical Specifications

Advantages of Root Cuttings

Packaging and Delivery

Why Choose KiriGreen Paulownia?

Paulownia Seed Sowing Guide

The 3 golden rules

1. Never bury the seeds

2. Light is essential

3. Create a warm, humid greenhouse environment

What you need

Essential

Optional but helpful Optional

Creating the greenhouse effect (the most important step)

How to create it

How to maintain it

The 8 steps, from seed to planting out

Common problems & solutions

Key takeaways for successful sowing

Paulownia Growing Guide

1. Variety overview

2. Root cuttings vs bare-root stumps

Root cuttings

Bare-root stumps

3. Checking your plants on delivery

4. Soil & substrate preparation

In open ground

In container / nursery

5. How to plant

Root cuttings

Bare-root stumps

6. Watering, care & fertilization

Watering

Fertilization & care

7. What to expect after planting

Selecting the dominant shoot

Frost protection

8. Common problems & solutions

9. Annual fertilization plan — Paulownia in open ground

10. Key takeaways for optimal success

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